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The Man Under the Helmet: A Bali Story That Will Change How You See Paradise

2024-11-15By Fawaz Hassan8 min read

Bali. The word itself conjures images of sun-drenched beaches, vibrant rice paddies, and a spiritual serenity that has lured travelers for decades. We scroll through Instagram feeds, dreaming of our own escape to this "Island of The Gods." But what lies beneath the glossy surface of this digital nomad hotspot?

Zak Saeed's poignant documentary, "The Life of a Motorcycle Taxi Driver in Bali," invites us to look closer, offering a deeply personal glimpse into the realities faced by those who keep the island moving.

Watch the Full Documentary

You can also watch it directly on YouTube: The Life of a Motorcycle Taxi Driver in Bali

Paradise Lost?

The film quickly establishes the stark contrast: the Bali of 50 years ago, an untouched paradise, versus today's congested, Westernized hub. Where healthy rice fields once swayed, now stand Pilates studios, vape shops, and crypto co-working spaces. And zipping through the chaotic traffic, an almost invisible army of green-jacketed motorcycle taxi drivers – the cogs in the machine that keep this tourist dream alive.

Enter Leon, a 24-year-old Gojek driver with an infectious smile and a spirit that shines brighter than the Bali sun. He's one of over two million Grab/Gojek drivers across Indonesia, navigating the island's gentrification firsthand.

Leon on his motorcycle in Bali trafficLeon on his motorcycle in Bali traffic

The Daily Grind

The documentary doesn't shy away from the realities of Leon's life:

The Work: Leon works upwards of eight hours a day, often more if he's not tired, earning around 300,000 IDR (roughly $18 USD) before tips.

The Challenges: He faces difficult customers (with Russians humorously singled out as often being the worst, and Australians the friendliest tippers) and the occasional dishonest patron who orders food and disappears.

The Living Conditions: Leon shares a small, basic room with his younger brother, where the rent has doubled in just two years due to rising property values. He also spends many nights sleeping on the floor of his grandmother's mobile shop, a makeshift wooden hut on the edge of ever-shifting construction sites, just to be near her and ensure her safety.

Yet, through it all, Leon's positivity is unwavering. "Because I'm young," he declares, "And I'm strong enough."

More Than Survival

He's not just working for himself. His mother lives in Singapore, his father passed away when he was 20, and the weight of providing for his family, especially his beloved grandmother, rests visibly on his young shoulders.

What's truly remarkable about Leon isn't just his resilience, but his profound philosophy on life. He dreams of working in Europe for a few years, not for personal luxury, but to save enough money to return to Indonesia, start a business, and, most importantly, "recruit staff, employees, who need around me."

His definition of being rich isn't about personal gain, but about the ability to help others. "Rich is not just for me," he explains, "Because if I want to help someone need, okay, this is for you... Rich man, for me, it means not just for me, because I can help some people."

A Message of Hope

His parting message, delivered with heartfelt sincerity in front of a stunning waterfall, encapsulates his spirit: "Just don't care about yourself. Please care with each other, because they're gonna make you stronger and gonna make you happy, always."

Leon's story, as captured by Zak Saeed, is a powerful reminder. It challenges us to look beyond the curated perfection of travel destinations and see the human stories, the daily struggles, and the incredible spirit of the people who call these places home. It makes us question our own definitions of success and happiness.

Supporting Leon's Dreams

The connection forged between Zak and Leon didn't end with the film. Moved by Leon's story and incredible spirit, Zak set up a GoFundMe page to help Leon achieve his dreams and support his family.

If Leon's story has touched you, and you'd like to directly support his aspirations of working in Europe, helping his grandmother, and ultimately building a business to employ others, you can contribute here:

Help Support Leon - A Grab Driver with Big Dreams

Beyond the Helmet

Next time you're in Bali, or anywhere your travels take you, take a moment. See the person behind the uniform, the individual navigating a changing world with dreams and responsibilities much like your own.

Leon's story isn't just about a Gojek driver in Bali; it's a universal tale of resilience, kindness, and the enduring power of human connection. And perhaps, by truly seeing "the man under the helmet," we can all find a richer, more meaningful kind of paradise.


What are your thoughts? Has a travel experience ever made you re-evaluate your own perspectives? Share your thoughts and experiences in the comments below.

About the Filmmaker: Zak Saeed is a documentary filmmaker and storyteller passionate about highlighting human stories that challenge perspectives and inspire connection. His work focuses on the intersection of travel, culture, and social impact.

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